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Het begrijpen van achtergebleven vlekken: het ‘cellulair geheugen' van de huid

Topic:Onvolkomenheden
Actives:BakuchiolNiacinamideVitamine C

post-inflammatoire hyperpigmentatie

Read time: about 7 minutes

In brief

  • Once a breakout or flare has cleared, it can leave behind a dark, grey or red mark that lingers for months. These are not scars.
  • Dark or grey marks are called PIH (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) and are more common in medium to deeper skin tones.
  • Pink, red or purple marks are called PIE (post-inflammatory erythema) and are more common in lighter skin tones.
  • Scrubbing or bleaching these marks aggressively tends to backfire, triggering fresh inflammation and making them worse.
  • Gentle, evidence-backed actives, bakuchiol, niacinamide and vitamin C, can help support a more even tone without that risk.
  • Daily sunscreen is essential, since UV exposure darkens and prolongs both PIH and PIE. Visible softening typically takes around 3 months, with fuller fading over 6 to 12 months.

Following our lovely time meeting so many of you at the Beauty Trade Special in Utrecht, we noticed a very common pattern. Many people came to our stand celebrating the fact that they had finally got their hormonal acne or eczema under control, but they were feeling deeply frustrated by what was left behind: stubborn, lingering marks that just would not fade.

Wanneer je huid een opflakkering heeft meegemaakt, houdt deze vaak de herinnering aan die onteking vast. In de huidverzorgingswereld worden deze vlekjes opgesplitst in twee categorieën: PIH (donkerbruine of grijze vlekjes) en PIE (roze, rode of paarse vlekjes). Laten we kijken naar de wetenschap achter de vraag waarom je huid deze herinneringen vasthoudt en hoe we haar kunnen helpen om dit los te laten.

The science behind the marks

To understand these leftover marks, it helps to realise that they are not permanent scars. True scarring involves structural damage to the skin’s collagen. PIH and PIE, by contrast, are signs of a temporary, post-injury traffic jam beneath the surface.

Depending on your skin tone and how your body naturally heals, that “traffic jam” takes one of two forms.

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)

PIH is more common in medium to deeper skin tones. When a breakout or irritation occurs, the inflammation triggers your pigment-producing cells to release extra melanin into the injured area. Even after the spot itself is gone, a dark brown or grey mark remains behind.

Post-inflammatory erythema (PIE)

PIE is more common in lighter skin tones. The inflammation from a spot or a scratch affects the tiny, superficial blood vessels beneath the skin, causing them to dilate. Long after the active breakout has flattened, a pink, red or purple mark remains because blood flow in that small area is still increased.

A note on what these marks are not. PIH and PIE are common, temporary after-effects of inflammation, not medical conditions in themselves and not the same as acne scarring. If you are unsure whether a mark is pigment, redness, melasma or a true scar, it is worth getting it checked by a GP or dermatologist, since these can look similar but are not managed in the same way.

The aggression trap

A well-documented clinical reality is that trying to aggressively scrub or bleach these marks away with harsh physical exfoliants or overly strong acids tends to backfire. The skin reads that friction as a fresh attack, triggers new inflammation, and can end up darkening or spreading the mark further, the opposite of what you were hoping for.

The Junita Lab philosophy: safely fading the memory

At Junita® Lab, our core philosophy focuses on biomimicry, using gentle ingredients that skin welcomes rather than resists, to guide it back to an even, settled state. We do not believe in punishing the skin to fade a mark. We believe in supporting the skin so it can clear the congestion at its own pace.

Bakuchiol for gentle renewal

Traditional retinol can cause peeling and irritation, which can ironically trigger more PIH or PIE. A head-to-head clinical trial found that bakuchiol produced comparable improvements in pigmentation and fine lines to retinol, with significantly less scaling and stinging. We use bakuchiol to support cell turnover, helping skin shed stained surface cells and bring fresher, more evenly toned cells up, without the irritation that can restart the cycle.

Niacinamide and vitamin C

This duo is well studied for supporting a more even tone. Niacinamide has been shown in laboratory research to reduce the transfer of melanin from pigment-producing cells into the surrounding skin cells by 35 to 68 per cent, and studied formulations containing niacinamide have also shown reductions in visible redness. Vitamin C is one of the most-researched antioxidants in skincare, helping to protect against UV-driven oxidative stress while supporting a brighter, more even-looking tone.

The barrier shield

When your skin barrier is compromised, it tends to sit in a low-grade, reactive state, which can keep marks looking more visible for longer. Using biomimetic plant oils that echo your skin’s own lipid profile helps keep the surface calm, comfortable and hydrated, so it can focus its energy on settling rather than staying on alert.

Nurturing your skin’s healing journey

Because PIH and PIE are closely tied to how your individual system responds to injury, the most honest advice we can share is that time, consistency and daily sun protection are your biggest allies. UV light can act like a magnifying glass on these marks, locking pigment and redness in place for longer, so a gentle daily SPF is essential.

Fading these marks is a process of patience. It typically takes around 3 months of a steady, gentle routine to see a visible softening, as skin moves through its natural cell-turnover cycles. Staying with that gentle approach for 6 to 12 months allows deeper congestion to clear, though the exact timeline varies from person to person.

Stepping away from harsh “quick fixes” and choosing a steady, biomimetic route lets you guide your skin back to balance gradually. The goal is skin that is not just fading its past, but building a calmer, more resilient future.

From the Junita range

A pairing built for exactly this: a gentle bakuchiol and vitamin C serum, alongside a niacinamide toner for daily support.

Bakuchigen™ Serum, €59.95

Bakuchiol 1%, vitamin C and ferulic acid 2%, formulated for pigment-prone or reactive skin that hasn’t tolerated traditional retinol. Supports cell turnover and a more even tone, without the irritation that can restart the cycle.

View product

ACB Hydrobalance™ Toner Spray, €19.99

A light, no-rinse mist with niacinamide to support your skin barrier and add gentle daily hydration alongside your fade-focused routine.

View product

Who this approach is for

  • Anyone whose acne or eczema has calmed down but has left dark, grey, pink or red marks behind.
  • Anyone unsure whether their marks are PIH, PIE, or something else entirely.
  • Anyone who has tried scrubbing or bleaching marks away, only to see them get worse.
  • Anyone wanting a gentle, evidence-led routine to support fading, rather than a harsh quick fix.

How to start, gently

  1. Identify which type of mark you have. Brown or grey suggests PIH; pink, red or purple suggests PIE. If unsure, a GP or dermatologist can confirm.
  2. Stop the aggression. Pause harsh scrubs, high-strength acids and any bleaching agents that feel like they are “fighting” the mark.
  3. Introduce gentle actives. Bakuchiol, niacinamide and vitamin C are well suited to supporting fading without provoking fresh inflammation.
  4. Wear sunscreen daily, without exception. UV exposure is one of the biggest reasons these marks linger longer than they need to.
  5. Give it time. Expect roughly 3 months for visible softening and 6 to 12 months for fuller fading, and treat consistency as more important than intensity.
  6. See a professional if marks persist well beyond this timeline, or if you are unsure whether you are dealing with pigmentation, redness, melasma or true scarring.

What we are building at Junita

Junita® exists for skin that has been through something and is trying to find its way back to calm. Supporting the skin to fade its own leftover marks, gently and on its own timeline, is exactly the kind of “less is more” care our whole philosophy is built around.

Key takeaways

  • PIH (dark/grey marks) and PIE (pink/red/purple marks) are temporary after-effects of inflammation, not scars.
  • PIH is more common in medium-deep skin tones; PIE is more common in lighter skin tones.
  • Aggressive scrubbing or bleaching tends to worsen both, by triggering fresh inflammation.
  • Bakuchiol, niacinamide and vitamin C are gentle, evidence-backed actives that support fading.
  • Daily sunscreen is essential; UV exposure darkens and prolongs both types of mark.
  • Expect roughly 3 months for visible softening, and 6 to 12 months for fuller fading.

If you know anyone who is tired of dealing with the ghost of old breakouts and needs a simpler, more human perspective, please do share this with them.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between PIH and PIE?

PIH (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) is a dark brown or grey mark caused by extra melanin released after inflammation, and it is more common in medium to deeper skin tones. PIE (post-inflammatory erythema) is a pink, red or purple mark caused by dilated blood vessels after inflammation, and it is more common in lighter skin tones.

Are PIH and PIE the same as scars?

No. True scarring involves structural damage to the skin’s collagen. PIH and PIE are temporary changes in pigment or blood flow following inflammation, and both typically fade on their own over time, especially with a gentle, consistent routine.

Why do dark or red marks get worse when I scrub or use strong acids?

Aggressive exfoliation or overly strong acids can trigger fresh inflammation in already-sensitive skin. That new inflammation can deepen or spread the existing mark rather than fading it, which is why a gentle approach tends to work better than an aggressive one.

How long does it take for these marks to fade?

Visible softening typically appears after around 3 months of a consistent, gentle routine. Fuller fading is commonly seen over 6 to 12 months, though this varies from person to person depending on skin tone, how the mark formed, and sun exposure.

Why is sunscreen so important for fading marks?

UV light can darken and prolong both PIH and PIE, effectively locking the pigment or redness in place for longer. Daily sunscreen is considered a first-line step in supporting these marks to fade.

Which ingredients actually help fade PIH and PIE?

Bakuchiol supports cell turnover with less irritation than traditional retinol, niacinamide is well studied for reducing the transfer of pigment into skin cells, and vitamin C is a well-researched antioxidant that supports a more even tone. All three are gentler options than harsh acids or bleaching agents.

Written by the Junita® Lab Team. Junita is a skincare brand built for difficult, reactive skin, with a barrier-first, evidence-led philosophy.

With love and science,
The Junita® Lab Team

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